Shaniko — Oregon’s Coolest Ghost Town
There’s something irresistible about a ghost town. Untouched buildings and relics of the past bring forth scenes from times long ago, embodying the hopes of the people who built them as well as the vagaries of fortune. Oregon has many former boom towns. Some, like The Dalles, survived and grew. Others had a different fate. I first came across the name of Shaniko, Oregon, while looking for interesting stops on the drive from Portland to Sisters. As soon as I saw pictures online, I changed my route to fit Shaniko into the trip. I was not disappointed. While some Oregon ghost towns only have a few buildings and others are still largely inhabited, many parts of Shaniko have remained undisturbed through the years. I confidently call it Oregon’s coolest ghost town.
Know before you go
Shaniko is in a rural area where amenities for visitors are few and far between. Bring a reliable vehicle, get gas before you leave, and have water in the car.
Shaniko has a few businesses. Their hours vary, and I wouldn’t count on anything being open. Shops are more likely to be open in summer when the town gets the most tourists.
Several dozen people live in Shaniko. Be aware that some buildings and homes are private property.
Once you reach Shaniko, getting around town is easy. The town is pretty small, and the best way to see it is to walk around and explore.
Bring your camera! There are many opportunities for atmospheric photos.
History of Shaniko
Shaniko’s past is a rollercoaster of ups and downs. It transformed from boom town to ghost town no less than three times. The town began forming in the late 1800s when it was called Cross Hollows. It became a town in 1901 and has since been known as Shaniko.
While many Old West boom towns are tied to the gold rush, Shaniko’s story began with wool. Known in its prime as the Wool Capital of the World, Shaniko was a railroad stop that provided important access to wool and wheat producers from miles around. In its heyday, Shaniko’s population reached around 600 people. When a new rail line was built that bypassed the town in 1911, its fortunes reversed, and the town’s population began to dwindle.
Shaniko School
Shaniko was revitalized in the 1920s and 30s when it housed workers who were making and improving roads in the area, including the construction of Highway 97. Once the work was completed, it became a ghost town once again until the 1950’s when a pipeline was being installed in the area. Once the pipeline construction ended, Shaniko became a ghost town once more and has remained one ever since. Despite its ghost town status, Shaniko is not completely abandoned. Several dozen residents live there today.
What to see in Shaniko
Today, many buildings remain from Shaniko’s glory days. Although aged and weathered, they’re otherwise remarkably unchanged. There are old cars and even a buggy or two in the middle of town. Look for the jail, school, wedding chapel, post office, museum, bank, water tower, and iconic Shaniko Hotel. Until recently, the Shaniko Hotel was open as a functioning hotel. A classic Old West building dating from 1902, I felt strange pulling up to it in a car rather than on a horse. It begs for cowboys to chew tobacco on its patio and for ragtime music to be playing in its lobby.
When to visit Shaniko
Shaniko gets the most visitors in the summer during its long sunny days. April through September is the town’s (relatively) busy season and when most businesses will be open. The town also hosts occasional events like concerts. The Shaniko Days festival takes place at the beginning of August, complete with live music, vendors, and gunfights.
Visiting during the off-season can be fun because having fewer people around adds to the atmosphere of a ghost town. I visited in the fall, and no one else was around. The area can get snow in winter, and most businesses will be closed.
Getting there
Shaniko is in a rural area. Cell phone reception is spotty. Having offline directions would be a good idea.
There are a couple of ways to reach Shaniko from Portland. Both drives are about 2.5 hours and scenic.
Take I-84 East to Highway 197 S. After about 40 miles on 197-S, turn left onto Bakeoven Rd and continue until Highway 97. Turn left onto Highway 97 N and continue a couple of miles until you reach Shaniko. This route will take you through the Columbia Gorge and Hood River.
Take Highway 26 East for about 70 miles, then follow the fork left onto Highway 216 East. Stay on Highway 216 until Highway 197 S. Take Highway 197 South for a few miles, then take Bakeoven Rd until Highway 97. This route will take you through the Cascade Mountains past Mount Hood.
From the south, take Highway 97 North until Shaniko. It’s 1.5 hours from Bend, Oregon.
Make it a day trip
Chances are it won’t take you the whole day to explore the town of Shaniko. Here are suggestions for cool stops nearby:
The mysterious Shaniko Mima Mounds
I just learned about Mima mounds (thank you, Nick Zentner Geology Podcast), and I’m so curious about them! You might notice the strange mounds of earth alongside Highway 97 near Shaniko. These mounds formed naturally, but no one is sure how. There are many theories, ranging from pocket gophers to minor earthquakes to snowmelt patterns.
White River Falls State Park
White River Falls
Hiking distance: 0.9 miles
Difficulty: Easy/moderate
Pass required: None
Amenities: A picnic area is next to the viewpoint for White River Falls. The restroom building near the viewpoint is open seasonally. In winter, there’s a porta-potty next to the parking area.
White River Falls State Park is less than an hour away from Shaniko. It makes for an easy stop on your way to or from Portland. The viewpoint for White River Falls is a short and easy walk from the parking area. You can continue down the hill past the remains of a former hydroelectric plant to reach Lower White River Falls. Continuing on the ghost town theme, hydroelectric equipment remains undisturbed by all but graffiti artists from the plant’s former life in 1910-1963, when it supplied electricity to the surrounding counties.
Enjoy your trip to Shaniko, Oregon!
With love,
Emma
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