9 Fun Things to Do at Newberry National Volcanic Monument

Newberry National Volcanic Monument is a sprawling geological thrill ride of a park in Central Oregon, located about 20 minutes from Bend and a little under 4 hours from Portland. Many of the park’s attractions are within the caldera of an active volcano and showcase the incredible impact that the Newberry Volcano has had on the surrounding landscape over thousands of years. Newberry’s last eruption was very recent (in geologic time) at only 1,300 years ago. It’s not so much a question of if it will erupt again but when. Beyond its amazing geology, Newberry has lakes, a waterfall, high desert forests, and hiking trails galore. Here is everything you need to know about visiting Newberry National Volcanic Monument.

Paulina Lake from the top of Paulina Peak

Know before you go:

• A recreation pass is needed to access all parts of Newberry National Volcanic Monument. One pass will cover everything. You can use the Northwest Forest Pass or America the Beautiful Pass. Otherwise, it is $5 for a day pass. You can purchase one online in advance, at the park entrance for Newberry Caldera or the Lava Lands Visitor Center.

• There are three main areas to explore: the Lava Lands Area (Lava Butte and Lava River Cave), Lava Cast Forest, and Newberry Caldera (Paulina Falls, Paulina Peak, Paulina Lake, East Lake, and the Big Obsidian Flow). From Bend, OR, take 97 South to Exits 151, 153, and Paulina Lake Road, respectively.

• The best time to visit is in summer or early fall. Snow covers this area during much of the year, especially at higher elevations. The park is open year-round, but many roads and trails will be closed due to snow. Some attractions like the Lava Butte shuttle, Lava River Cave, and visitor centers close in winter as well. To get the most out of your visit, visit from around Memorial Day - Labor Day.

• Some attractions (like Lava Butte and the Lava River Cave) have specific hours, which I’ll mention below. Knowing the hours may impact your itinerary if you want to pack a lot into one day.

• Bring lots of water. This park gets hot in the summer and many trails have limited shade.

1. Walk the Lava Cast Forest Trail

Distance: 1.0-mile paved loop

Elevation gain: Minimal

Difficulty: Easy, the first half of the trail is also wheelchair accessible.

Kid friendly: Yes, very!

Dog friendly: Yes, dogs on leashes are welcome.

Amenities: Restrooms at the trailhead.

Lava cast

It can be hard to grasp the scale of the destruction caused by flowing lava until you are face to face with its aftermath. The Lava Cast Forest hike is a haunting walk through a landscape formed thousands of years ago when lava flowed through an old-growth forest, killing the vegetation and leaving behind casts of tree stumps as memorials to the forest that was lost. Today the cast forest is hardly desolate. Ponderosa pines encroach on the acres of volcanic rock. Delicate paintbrush flowers provide bright flashes of red against the dark stone. Chipmunks scurry and hide. The trail itself is an easy paved stroll with interpretive signs along the way to help orient you to the geology of the area. In the second half of the hike, look for distant Mt Bachelor and Broken Top as a backdrop for the lava casts.

To reach the Lava Cast Forest Trail, take Exit 153 and use the unpaved but well-maintained road to get to the trailhead. This trail is not directly connected to the attractions of Newberry Caldera, so it’s best to go either before or after visiting the caldera to minimize driving. Make sure you have a recreation pass before going to the Lava Cast Forest. There is no way to purchase a pass at the parking area.

2. Visit Paulina Falls

Paulina Falls

Distance: 0.5 miles out-and-back from the trailhead to the lower falls viewpoint.

Difficulty: Easy

Kid friendly: Yes, there are walls and guardrails near the falls. The trails are very well maintained.

Dog friendly: Yes, dogs on leashes are welcome.

Amenities: Restrooms at the trailhead.

Lower Falls Viewpoint

At the lowest point in the Newberry Caldera, water draining from Paulina Lake plunges over a cliff face in twin streams to form Paulina Falls. The cliff behind the falls once extended around 200 feet farther out before a flood caused it to break apart, leaving behind the enormous boulders seen at the base of the falls today.

There are several viewpoints where you can admire the falls. From the trailhead at the parking lot, there will be a fork in the path. Going left at the fork will bring you down a short, steep hike to the lower falls. From here, it is easiest to take in the full grandeur of the falls, including all the rivulets of water snaking through the boulders. Return the way you came for a 0.5-mile roundtrip hike.

Taking a right at the fork will bring you a short distance (less than 0.25 miles) to the upper falls viewpoint, where you can see the falls up close as they plunge off the cliff.

There is a third viewpoint on the other side of the falls that is a little farther of a walk. From the upper falls viewpoint, continue on the trail until you reach a bridge across Paulina Creek. Cross the bridge and continue using the trail on the other side of the creek. I didn’t see a sign, but just take the trail closest to the creek and you’ll be going the right way. Follow this trail until you reach the viewpoint, which will be to your left. This viewpoint isn’t better than the others, but it is a pleasant, shaded walk to get there and not many people make the journey compared to the other viewpoints. Return the way you came to reach the parking lot. The roundtrip is a little under 1.5 miles.

3. Take a boat out on Paulina Lake

Boat rentals at Paulina Lake

Paulina Lake is the larger of the two lakes within the Newberry Caldera. It is fed by snowmelt, rain, and the hot springs located on its north side. The best way to see the lake is to take to the water on a paddleboard, kayak, or fishing boat. There is a boat ramp and dock at the Paulina Lake Lodge if you happen to have your own. Otherwise, you can rent almost any kind of boat from the lodge by the hour or by the day from mid-May through September. There are fish in the lake if you’re interested in fishing and bait is available for sale at a shop by the docks.

Paulina Lake

These are the rates when as of the summer of 2022:

• Kayaks and canoes: $30/hour, $80/day

• Paddleboards: $30/hour, $100/day

• Motorboats: $90/half day, $110/day

• 4-5 person boats: $200/half day, $250/day

• 8-10 person boats: $250/half day, $300/day

4. Grab lunch at the Paulina Lake Lodge

Paulina Lake Lodge

After a long day of paddling, biking, or hiking, stop by the Paulina Lake Lodge Restaurant to refuel. The restaurant’s large windows overlook the lake so you won’t feel too far from nature even when you’re indoors. Lunch is casual with offerings along the lines of burgers, soups, and salads, including a number of vegetarian options. Lunch entrees run about $15-20.

Dinner would be more of a special occasion. Reservations are required and entrees are pricier at $40 for the restaurant’s specialty, prime rib, or $20 for vegetarian entrees. In either case, there are temptations like a full bar and homemade cobbler to make you want to linger.

5. See the Big Obsidian Flow

Distance: 0.6-mile loop

Elevation gain: 200 feet

Difficulty: Moderate

Kid friendly: Yes, although very young children might have some trouble with the rocky trail.

Dog friendly: No, the trail has sharp rocks.

Amenities: Restrooms at the trailhead.

Please do not remove obsidian from the park.

New trees grow from piled pumice and obsidian

Even in a land of volcanic marvels, the Big Obsidian Flow is a show-stopper. A product of the Newberry Volcano’s most recent eruption, the surreal landscape of the obsidian flow will have you feeling like you’ve stepped into another world. The short and sweet 0.6-mile trail winds through fields of pumice and obsidian left in the wake of the eruption around 1,300 years ago, which spread ash as far as Idaho. The lava flow ended abruptly and is now a steep hillside of volcanic rocks next to pine forests.

Obsidian is perhaps the most visually striking of all the volcanic rocks. Smooth black stones with their unique luster stand out against the contrasting pale pumice. Surprisingly, living plants dot the otherwise desolate flow. Regular interpretive signs line the path with details about the area’s geology and fun facts about obsidian. I learned that:

• Obsidian has been used as currency in the past.

• Scalpels made with obsidian are sharper than those of steel.

Unique volcanic conditions created the obsidian flow. Obsidian forms when silica-rich lava cools quickly at the Earth’s surface, preventing the formation of crystals that would alter its glassy appearance. It also requires a fairly recent eruption to prevent alteration of the obsidian by normal environmental conditions, primarily the uptake of water, over time. In geologic time, an eruption 1,300 years ago is pretty similar to saying yesterday, which means the obsidian still has its particular and fragile qualities at the Newberry flow. Walking through it feels like exploring an alien planet, or perhaps Mordor, and evokes a sense of both awe and adventure.

6. Drive to the top of Paulina Peak

Paulina Peak Observation Site

The Paulina Peak Observation Site at the top of Paulina Peak offers views of the Newberry Caldera from its highest point, 7,984 feet. There is a narrow unpaved road to reach it, which is closed most of the year due to snow. The road is usually open from early July-October, although it may not open until August depending on weather conditions. The road to the top is a bit harrowing thanks to some tight curves, but it’s in good condition and drivable with a low-clearance vehicle.

Once you reach the top, you’ll be rewarded with 360-degree views. Look for the twin blue pools of East Lake and Paulina Lake. You’ll see the Big Obsidian Flow from above, which is a powerful way to appreciate both its scale and the unique character of its rocks. Looking beyond the Newberry Caldera, you’ll have views of the Cascades Mountains. On a clear day, you can see all the way to California’s Mt Shasta to the south and Washington’s Mt Rainier to the north.

7. Take the shuttle up Lava Butte

Lava Butte Summit

Lava Butte is located at the northern end of Newberry National Volcanic Monument and is the closest of its attractions to Bend. The 500-foot butte is easily visible from Highway 97, but you can’t fully appreciate it without seeing it up close.

Lava Butte is a cinder cone that erupted around 7,000 years ago and now sits surrounded by a 9 square-mile lava flow. Commanding an impressive view above the Lava Lands Visitor Center, the butte has been used as a fire lookout tower since 1913. From the top of the butte, there are views of the lava rock below as well as the crater at the butte’s center. There is a short, easy 0.3-mile trail surrounding this crater. Look for Broken Top, Mt Bachelor, and the Three Sisters mountains as you make the circle around the loop trail.

From the parking area at the base of the butte, you can access the hiking trails through the lava flow anytime from dawn to dusk. To reach the top of the butte, you’ll need to take the shuttle from the Lava Lands Visitor Center. While you’re there, you can stop in the Visitor Center to see exhibits about the geology, history, and ecology of the area.

Look for hiking trails through the lava fields at the base of Lava Butte

About the shuttle:

• During peak season, around June-Labor Day, the shuttle leaves every 20 minutes from the Lava Lands Visitor Center.

• It costs $3/person to ride the shuttle. There are two ways to pay: either with cash (exact change required) OR download the Umo Mobility App, create an account, and purchase the Lava Butte Pass.

• The shuttle operates from 10 AM - 4 PM. You cannot access the top of the butte by private vehicle at any time, even if the shuttle has stopped running for the day.

• The shuttles are wheelchair accessible.

• Shuttles can transport bikes.

• Leashed dogs can ride the shuttle.

8. Visit the Lava River Cave

Lava River Cave entrance

Distance: 2.2 miles out and back

Elevation gain: 150 feet

Difficulty: Easy with enough light

Kid friendly: Yes

Dog friendly: No, dogs are not allowed in the cave.

Amenities: Restrooms near the parking lot.

Newberry’s Lava River Cave is a 2-mile out-and-back journey through an underground lava tube, the largest of its kind in Oregon. Of all the things to do at Newberry National Volcanic Monument, the cave takes the most planning because you will need a timed reservation in addition to a Northwest Forest Pass. There have been no same-day reservations whenever I’ve looked, so I’d suggest making your reservation at least one day before you want to visit.

The permit system began to address problems with crowding at the Lava River Cave. I tried to visit for the first time in 2022 before the permit system started and made the rookie mistake of underestimating the popularity of the cave. My friends and I tried twice to go on a Saturday and had to give up both times due to the long line of cars blocking the entrance and much of the road leading to it. The permit system is a big improvement. I made a reservation about 24 hours before and was able to drive right in when the park opened at 9 AM. Permits cost $2/vehicle.

Here are a few tips for visiting the cave:

• Bring a good light. The cave is unlit and cell phone lights aren’t bright enough. You can rent an LED light on-site for $5. These lights work really well. Besides being bright, you can point them at the cave walls and ceiling to see more detail than I got from my camping lantern.

• Dress warm and wear closed-toed shoes. The cave will be around 42 degrees F and the ground is uneven.

• Do not use child carrier backpacks due to low ceilings.

• Use the park restroom ahead of time and plan on spending about 2 hours in the cave. A ranger will lead a brief safety orientation before you can enter the cave.

• The cave is seasonal and generally open from May until mid-September to protect bat populations.

Read all about the Lava River Cave and its reservation system in my article here.

9. Check out the hiking trails

There are miles and miles of hiking trails in Newberry National Volcanic Monument and you can’t go wrong in your choice. Here are a few possibilities:

• Little Crater Trail, a 1.8-mile loop with views of Paulina Peak, Paulina Lake, East Lake, and the Big Obsidian Flow.

• Paulina Lake Loop, a 7.3-mile loop hike around Paulina Lake. This trail will take you past a warm spring on a black sand beach, as well as offering great views of Paulina Peak. The warm spring can only be accessed on foot (or perhaps by boat). No road goes directly there.

• Paulina Peak Hike, a 6.2-mile challenging out-and-back hike up to the top of Paulina Peak, the highest point in the Newberry Caldera at 7.984 feet. See the lakes, the Big Obsidian Flow, and the Three Sisters Mountains.

• Trail of the Molten Land, an easy, paved 1.0-mile loop trail at the base of Lava Butte through an intriguing basalt lava flow. About one-third of this trail has been improved to allow for wheelchair access.

• Starting from the Benham Falls East Trailhead will take you a little under 2.0 miles out and back along the Deschutes River Trail to Benham Falls. You’ll see the Deschutes River, the Lava Butte lava flow, and end at a viewpoint for Benham Falls.

Benham Falls

Looking for bike trails? You’re in luck! There are bike trails in Newberry National Volcanic Monument for all skill and ambition levels. Here are a couple of the options:

• Take the paved Sun-Lava Path from the Lava Lands Visitor Center to the Deschutes River. This trail is a great one for kids. There is an option to continue on an unpaved trail to see Benham Falls.

• The Crater Rim Trail is a 21-mile loop for mountain biking around the entirety of the Newberry Caldera. There are a few connecting trails that provide options for shorter rides as well.

Enjoy your visit to Newberry National Volcanic Monument!

With love,

Emma

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