Tam-a-lau Trail

Patch of phlox next to hiking trail overlooking Cove Palisades

In the heart of Central Oregon’s high desert, three rivers meet at Cove Palisades State Park. Lava rock cliffs tower over the deep blue waters of the Deschutes, Crooked, and Metolius Rivers as they converge at Lake Billy Chinook. The park is mostly a boating destination but has one awesome hiking trail, the Tam-a-lau Trail. This spectacular and lightly trafficked hike leads up to a lava plateau overlooking the Deschutes and Crooked River Canyons. Along the way, you’ll have incredible views of Cascade Mountain peaks and the protected peninsula known as the Island. Here’s everything you need to know about hiking the Tam-a-lau Trail.

Mount Jefferson behind juniper forest

You’ll have great views of Mt Jefferson on the Tam-a-lau Trail

Know before you go

  • The Tam-a-lau Trail is in Cove Palisades State Park. You’ll need the Oregon State Park Pass to park at the trailhead ($10/day or $30/year). You can buy a day pass on-site.

  • Leashed dogs are welcome on the Tam-a-lau Trail.

  • Restrooms and picnic tables are at the trailhead.

  • Watch for rattlesnakes. I saw one slither across the trail in front of me.

  • The Tam-a-lau Trail doesn’t have shade. Bring lots of water and wear sunscreen. Start early on hot summer days.

  • The trail is near some drop-offs. They’re easy to avoid. It's not a great hike with small children because of the heights, distance, and uphill walking. It would be fine with older kids.

Hiking trail on high desert hillside with views of Deschutes River Canyon

The Deschutes River from the Tam-a-lau Trail

On the Tam-a-lau trail

Distance: 6.5-mile lollipop loop

Elevation gain: 700 feet

Difficulty: Moderate

Pass required: Oregon State Park Pass ($10/day)

Dog friendly: Yes, leashed dogs are welcome on the trail.

ADA access: No

Season: Potentially year-round. Best in spring and fall. Snow sometimes makes the trail inaccessible in winter.

The details

Finding the Tam-a-lau Trailhead is a little confusing. Ignore the trails that start from the day-use parking lot. They lead down to the picnic area by the river, which I’d save for after the hike. Instead, head back up the driveway to SW Jordan Road. Cross the road and head left. You’ll see a trail with a hiker icon on a signpost. Take this trail.

Signpost with hiker icon next to trail

Look for this trail starting from SW Jordan Rd

Just ahead is the Tam-a-lau Trailhead, which has restrooms and interpretive information about the park. A large sign marks the start of the trail. If you’re staying at the campground by the trailhead, the hike is about 6 miles roundtrip. From the day-use parking lot, it’s closer to 7.

Sign at the Tam-a-lau trailhead

Tam-a-lau Trailhead

The hike begins steadily uphill, gaining almost all its elevation in about a mile. You’ll walk through a grassland of juniper, rabbitbrush, and sagebrush. In the distance are the cliffs of the Deschutes River Canyon.

Trail through juniper and sagebrush

Wildflowers bloom along the Tam-a-lau Trail in spring and summer. In mid-April, the first of the balsamroot was starting to open. Spreading phlox and prairie stars were at their peak. Later in the season, look for lupines and yarrow.

Clumps of yellow wildflowers

Balsamroot along the trail

As you climb toward the top of the plateau, you’ll see the summit of Mount Jefferson popping up above the cliffs. At the base of the canyon is the Deschutes River. The name Tam-a-lau comes from a Native American phrase in the Sahaptin language meaning “place of big rocks on the ground.” The trail lives up to its name. Boulders have broken off the cliffs, leaving chunky rocks all down the hillside.

Hint of mountain summit over cliffs above river

First glimpse of Mount Jefferson

Looking back, you’ll see a preview of your destination, a viewpoint overlooking the basalt plateau called the Island. This protected research area is a towering peninsula with the Deschutes River on one side and the Crooked River on the other.

Hiking trail on hill overlooking river and cliffs

Deschutes River and the Island

After what feels like a long climb, you’ll reach the top of the plateau about a mile from the trailhead. Things get a lot easier from here. A sign marks the start of the loop around the plateau. We’ll head left to get to the viewpoint a little sooner.

Sign for the Tam-a-lau Trail loop

The loop starts here

Once you’re on top of the plateau, you’ll have a great view of Mount Jefferson’s summit. It’s also a great place to admire the unusual cliffs of the Cove Palisades. At their base are crumbly rock layers formed by river deposits and volcanic ash. Above is the rimrock basalt, a layer of lava rock with distinct vertical columns.

Mountain summit behind high desert hills and cliffs

Mount Jefferson

Looking back, you’ll see the Three Sisters and Broken Top.

Mountain views from hiking trail

The Sisters

The first part of the loop follows the canyon rim overlooking the Deschutes River as you head toward the Island. The hike is more peaceful from fall to spring before the noisy boats and jet skis appear on the water.

Basalt rim of canyon over Deschutes River

The trail follows the plateau’s rim

After about a mile on the plateau, you’ll reach the far end of the loop and the hike’s most jaw-dropping vista. Here you’ll see the Island, with the Deschutes River to the left and the Crooked River to the right. Look for the distant peak of Mount Hood behind it. The Island is closed to the public to protect its unique environment. The Tam-a-lau Trail viewpoint is the best way to see it. Although a land bridge keeps the Island from being, well, an actual island, the plateau at the top is a world unto itself, about as close as we can come to seeing what Central Oregon’s ecology would be without human influence.

Basalt plateau at river confluence

The Island Viewpoint

After the Island Viewpoint, the trail takes a turn and follows the Crooked River. You lose sight of the Cascade Mountains for a while, but you’ll get a dramatic overhead view of the Crooked River Canyon and the SW Jordan Bridge, the bridge you took to reach the trailhead.

Bridge crosses Crooked River at base of canyon

Crooked River

The end of the loop cuts across the plateau back towards the Deschutes River Canyon. You’ll start seeing Cascades peaks again. Watch for raptors overhead and rattlesnakes near the trail.

Distant mountain from hiking trail

Views of Mount Jefferson return

Once you finish the loop on top of the plateau, head back down to the trailhead the way you came.

Upper Deschutes Day Use Area

It’s easy to get down to the water after hiking the Tam-a-lau Trail. After returning, look for a couple of trails that start from the parking lot. Take either down the hill to reach the Upper Deschutes Day Use Area. The picnic area next to the Deschutes River is a perfect lunch spot after your hike. Some trees shade the tables along the river. Look for swallowtail butterflies near the water. On a hot day, the river is a tempting wading spot.

Picnic tables next to river

Picnic tables in the Upper Deschutes Day Use Area

Enjoy your hike on the Tam-a-lau Trail!

With love,

Emma

Getting there

The Tam-a-lau Trail is in Cove Palisades State Park, about an hour from Bend, Oregon. Once you reach the park, take SW Jordan Road past the Crooked River Day Use Area and over SW Jordan Bridge. After passing the Petroglyph Site, look for a sign pointing toward the Tam-a-lau Trail parking area. The roads in Cove Palisades State Park are paved and in good condition.

The drive from Portland to Cove Palisades State Park takes about 2 hours and 40 minutes.

Explore nearby

Dock on the water in Cove Palisades

Learn more about Cove Palisades State Park.

Waterfall in Deschutes River Canyon

Cool off at Steelhead Falls.

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